POTATO CHAMPION’S DOUBLE-FRY TECHNIQUE, which I interpret here, yields potatoes that are cottony on the inside and crisp on the out. Texture, as any good fry obsessive knows, is as important as taste. If you want to dunk your fries in the Tarragon and Anchovy Mayonnaise, keep in mind the mayonnaise needs to sit for at least one hour before using.

A bouquet of fries meant to be eaten hot from the fryer.


2 pounds large russet potatoes, peeled Peanut or canola oil
Kosher salt
Tarragon and Anchovy Mayonnaise (optional, recipe follows), for serving

  1. Cut the potatoes lengthwise into ½ inch–thick slices. Stack 2 to 3 slices on top of each other and cut them lengthwise into ½ inch–wide strips. Place the sliced potatoes in a large bowl of cold water for 10 minutes to remove the starch. Drain the potatoes and pat them dry with paper towels.
  2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Add enough oil to a large heavy pot to reach a depth of 4 inches. Attach a deep fry thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium-high heat until the thermometer registers 325°F. Working in batches and being careful not to overcrowd the pot, carefully add the potatoes to the hot oil and cook them until tender, 4 to 5 minutes per batch, stirring them occasionally with a slotted spoon. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to the parchment-lined baking sheet and let cool for 30 minutes. Do not discard the oil.
  3. When ready to serve, reheat the reserved oil over high heat to 375°F. Working in batches, return the potatoes to the hot oil and cook them until golden and crisp, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 minutes. With the slotted spoon, transfer the fries to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle the fries with coarse salt and serve immediately with the Tarragon and Anchovy Mayonnaise, if desired.